Friday 21 February 2014

The Aran Sweater: a garment full of history and tradition

The Aran Sweater (or geansaí in Irish) is a type of jumper synonymous with the rugged rural lifestyle of the west of Ireland and takes its name from the Aran Islands off the west coast of Galway Bay. These iconic garments are also commonly referred to as Irish fisherman sweaters. Classical Irish Fisherman sweaters are typically a dense bulky item of clothing comprising cable knit patterns on the chest area and tend to be cream in colour.

The Aran Islands are made up of three islands: the smallest of which is Inisheer, followed by Inishmann and then the largest which is Inishmore. Stones are abundant throughout the islands with the trademark stone fences stretching across the landscape in addition to the numerous ruinous stone forts.

Knitting was communal for the wives and daughters of the fisherman as well as a forum for education and storytelling. Their work was usually arduous with a single Aran sweater taking between 40 and 50 hours to complete.

These iconic Aran sweaters are clearly distinguished by the use of complex interwoven textured stitch patterns. Often a combination of these stitch patterns are used in the production of a single sweater. Every stitch pattern has traditional interpretation and a distinctive story:
  • Blackberry - represents the thickets of blackberry bushes which dot the Aran Islands. It is a clear reminder of natures riches.
  • Tree of Life - This depicts the tendrils of family, clans and past generations.
  • Cable - represents the fisherman's ropes and hopes for the day's catch.
  • Diamond - frequently matches with moss stitching. This represents the hope of future wealth and success.
  • Moss - represent the carrageen moss which lines the stone walls of the islands. Often knitted as a diamond filler.
  • Zig Zag - represents half a diamond and depicts the cliffs of the islands.
  • Basket - represents the angular squares of a fisherman's basket and the hope of bountiful baskets of fish to bring back his family.
  • Honeycomb - represents the tireless hard work of the islands' inhabitants. A testament to the busy bees of the island.
  • Trellis - represents the countless fields which make up the island.

Aran Sweaters for men
Traditionally, an Aran jumper is made from undyed cream-coloured (otherwise referred to in Irish as báiní), a yarn made from sheep's wool. They were originally made with unwashed wool that still contained natural sheep lanolin, making the garment extent water-resistant. There are few sheep on the Aran Islands today and more critically even fewer knitters. Modern Aran Sweaters are generally machine knit with soft Merino wool though there is a limited production of hand-knits. Aran sweaters for men, women and children of all ages are now available to be purchased and often a great idea for great Irish gifts.
 
Aran sweaters from the 1930's and 1940's are displayed at the National Museum of Ireland. They are rightly regarded as a national treasure and classic example of the hard working ethic that typified rural life in Ireland during the early 20th century and before it.
 
The patterns, designs and embossed decoration on every Irish wool sweater still reflect the loves, lives, losses and defiance of this isolated community at the edge of the Atlantic Ocean.
 

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